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A tripod is one of the basic tools of the amateur photographer. Among the accessories in the arsenal of the photographer, he is one of the first to appear. Today, the main reason for buying a tripod is most often the recording of videos for social networks. If you get tired of blogging, a tripod gives you access to a variety of photography techniques. Let's talk about the most unusual of them.
This concept came from the English language, literally means "freeze the light." The results really look like the light sources left a trajectory frozen in the air.
To create your own photo masterpiece in this style, you need:
When shooting, use the manual mode with a long exposure (from a few seconds) and minimum light sensitivity. While the matrix is open, absolutely all the light that enters the lens falls on its surface. This explains the plumes that light sources leave behind.
A clear picture will be obtained only if the camera is completely motionless. To do this, use a tripod and remote controls or a delayed shutter release timer (so that pressing the button does not blur the frame).
When shooting a freezelight, a number of features must be taken into account:
Light-colored clothing will make you more visible to the camera. Because of this, an unwanted silhouette or glare of the reflective element may appear in the photo.
Plan your photo in advance. Take a few training shots to adjust your camera settings and get an idea of how long it takes to create your drawing.
Experiment with different light sources. The more complex the sources, the more interesting the result looks.
To photograph a person in front of a freezelight, you need an additional pulse of light. It can be a built-in flash of a second camera or a more powerful (external) version.
This genre requires much more concentration and patience, and every successful shot here is preceded by a long preparation.
Before shooting:
Check the weather forecast. Ideal weather conditions: no clouds, wind and precipitation. If any of this is in the forecast, it may interfere with the shooting.
Stay away from human settlements. They will become sources of light pollution.
Consider the composition of the shot. Trees, rocks, silhouettes of people look especially interesting against the background of the night sky.
Experiment with your camera settings. Remember that wide open the aperture increases the amount of light entering the sensor, but decreases the depth of field. Excessively high sensitivity will spoil the frame with a lot of noise.
For astrophotography, it is better to use full-frame cameras (due to the larger sensor size) and wide-angle optics in the range from 12 to 24 mm. In addition to a tripod, you will need a weighting device for added stability, a remote shutter release and a flashlight.
A separate category of astrophotography can be considered images with the trajectory of the stars. You can get such a frame in two ways: by stitching a series of images with an exposure of 20–30 seconds, or by one frame with an exposure of 30 minutes or more.
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In the first case, a series of frames will have to be combined programmatically. StarStaX or Startrails are perfect for this. Both utilities are completely free and have all the necessary functionality to get the final result in a couple of clicks. You just need to load images and select one of the modes. StarStaX has nine frame merging modes, Startrails has two.
In the second case, the camera must have a “Bulb” mode. In which the aperture remains open as long as the shutter button is pressed.
The demands on the quality of a tripod when shooting the night sky are increasing. The camera must be held still for several hours. The freezing time is much shorter (usually no more than 60 seconds).
Another example of using slow shutter speeds to get an unusual effect from quite ordinary things is shooting water. The result is atmospheric footage, which creates the feeling of filling the reservoir with fog. Photos of mountain rivers or large bodies of water during ebb and flow look especially impressive.
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